Despite it not being TGP approved, it works for me. Now, use use the appropriate allen key or screwdriver to raise or lower the saddle to the desired height. However, go by the tuner, not the ruler! The notion of a completely straight neck is something of a myth. Billy G. last night!!! We’re taking a tour of a Fender Stratocaster trem setup. Everybody always told me strats were notorius buzzers, got to live with a little higher action. With your right hand, depress the low E at the 15th fret. I go strictly by feel and ears. As with ‘bow’, the lower the string is, the easier it will be to play, but the easier it will be to make it rattle. This is the tension we will need to balance and we can start with measuring it, and none of the other settings like string height matter at this point. Do check the inner strings in case the bridge has less curvature than the fingerboard; you don’t want the inner strings being too low. The bow should be an even arc from the nut to wherever the neck attaches to the body; the heel block will provide so much stiffness that the arc will stop. ©2020 The Twelfth Fret. Buzz free, effortless to play. Low, but just high enough so l can get under the. I measured my strat and tele and they're easily 2mm and above. Some instruments use socket type adjusters to fit over the adjustment nut rather than into it. Just wondering how many of u have fenders that can actually go that low as recommended? I like higher action as well, especially on Fenders. I suppose that is a combination of the guitar and my playing. But, these adjustmens will also be affected by the changes we may make to the trem springs, so we will just do this roughly at first. Nothing worse than the ratty/buzz tone of low action. To decrease the amount of bow and straighten the neck, tighten the adjuster; to increase the bow, loosen the adjuster. But, the reality is that some amount of curvature or ‘bow’ is necessary because of the physical nature of string vibration. These action adjustments are a normal part, but not all of a setup; for now we’re not going to look at the electronics. I've carefully followed the instructions on the Fender website about truss rod adjustment etc. The string above the one I am bending has to hit my callous, not roll under my finger, or over the nail. 12th fret because it's 1/2 way to the saddle, so an action of adjustment of .010" will require .020" at the saddle. If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. My son ran into Rev. One players low action is another players high action, so terms like that have little meaning for me. Does your manual say 12th fret? It can help to visualize the truss rod as a long bolt, and the adjuster itself as a nut – because this is essentially what they are. If it’s a lot easier with the capo, the nut is too high. Medium usually, medium rare sizzle om strats. This height is affected not just by the depth of the slots, but also by the amount of neck curvature; the nut is at the very end of the arc and as the neck straightens, it moves “down” pretty quickly. Hold the string down at the first and ‘last’ fret – ‘last’ meaning to where the neck attaches and measure the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string in the center of that length – usually around the 7th fret. So I got use to 12-54's at 4to5/64s; and I'm happy enough with that. Or, you can skip the capo and use a thin pick as a feeler gauge on the open string. Now, we’re going to go through the rest of the action adjustments. I have a light touch and use 8's on all my electrics. Nut height is a convenient and almost accurate term. Early instruments had no truss rod at all and this was followed by the use of fixed neck reinforcements. Here, we’re using a 0.5mm pick and it’s just damping the string. Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Low as possible and lower the pickup height if necessary. The Gear Page is the leading online community and marketplace for guitars, amps, pedals, effects and associated gear. Different people consider terms like low, medium, and high to be completely different things. Play with this to find the best results for your personal instrument and style, but do try it! Again it’s important to use the correct tool. A common and useful setting is to set the tension so that the G can pull up to an A#, which puts the B at C# and the E to F. Turn the two large Phillips-head screws holding the claw in to adjust the spring tension; you’ll then need to retune, and test the avaiable pitch rise. Last time i did setup my guitars at about something less than 2mm and liked it. So, we need to have some ‘bow’, and to get to the right amount, we start with installing the strings and getting them to pitch. How does that translate? The Gear Page is the leading online community and marketplace for guitars, amps, pedals, effects and associated gear. If you need to add a little relief back in to eliminate buzzes then do so. I like low action with some buzz and shizzle. The height on my low E/17th fret is 6/64s. Welcome back to The Twelfth Fret’s Repair Shop! Nut height This pretty much cured that. Now, pop a capo on the first fret, and play the same barre chord on the second fret. I'm on the 4 side of #5 but that would be too darn granular of a survey. Played effortlessly. First, measure the string height – the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string – at the twelfth fret, the octave. I was just reading through the fender manual and their recommended string height for guitars above 9' radius is 1.6mm from top of 17th fret to the bottom of the string. How you set up the guitar past this point is personal preference. The basic guide is that the straighter a neck is, the easier it will be to play. The old rule was to be able to slide a business card under the string at the 5th fret, your mileage may vary. That is a very generic setup that a lot of people can do with. It’s important to note that the setup tasks follow the sequence I’ve listed them in, because each one is influenced by the ones before it. If there is a trem bridge, simply using the bar a bit is sufficient. The Old Tele Man is correct in describing the action of a vibrating string. Adding more bow can seem to raise the nut. However, most modern instruments feature adjustable rods that allow fine control over the amount of ‘bow’ or ‘relief’. Since I mostly play with a clean tone, I don't want any buzz- so medium is usually where my action ends up.

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